Writer H.L. Mencken—the Sage of Baltimore—called her a "wicked seaport" but where "the old charm, in truth, still survives."
Neither Southern nor Northern, Baltimore has charted her own course through the American Experience. The spires of the nation's first cathedral rose into her sky, and the first blood of the Civil War fell on her streets. Here, enslaved Frederick Douglass toiled before fleeing to freedom and Billie Holiday learned to sing. Baltimore's clippers plied the seven seas while her pioneering railroads opened the prairie West. The city that birthed "The Star-Spangled Banner" also gave us Babe Ruth and the bottle cap. This guide navigates nearly 300 years of colorful history—from Johns Hopkins' learned philanthropy to the raucous camp of John Waters, and from modest rowhouses to the marbled mansions of the Gilded Age.
Let local authors Brennen Jensen and Tom Chalkey introduce you to Mencken's "ancient and solid" city.